Building ‘the office’

20 03 2012

Thankfully most of the parts for the interior came with the car so getting it up to scratch wasn’t too much of a problem.

First of all I had to fabricate new brackets for the seat as it used to run with a different one.  The car is built to the strict Mini Se7en rules which require a substantial seat frame so I had a good strong base to work from. I cut the old triangular brackets off and welded them on an inch or two further out. After painting I bolted the seat in – nice and secure!

The steering wheel the car came with was a bit ropey so a new suede one and quick release mechanism was bought from McGill Motorsports. I welded the spline to the steering column and fitted the wheel. A seating check confirmed my calculations were correct and everything felt comfortably in reach and ergonomic.

We have to run FIA spec seat belts so a 6 point set was fitted – again from McGill Motorsports. You can’t cut corners on safety and once adjusted ‘the office’ felt very secure indeed.

Luckily the wiring loom wasn’t going to change too much and is of aircraft spec. The removed Stack system the car used when it was a Mini Se7en had left a bit of a gap in the carbon fibre dash-pod so I  made an alloy panel for the new rev counter/oil pressure /oil temperature /water temperature gauge. Once secured I ran the wires through to the existing loom and mounted the shift light on top of the switch pod.

The gear linkage fits inside the car a la Mini Miglia. It’s a pretty trick setup and only required a clean up and paint.

The handbrake uses just one cable rather than the standard Mini’s two. Also it is mounted on the right hand side of the driver instead of centrally, and a welded in sleeve allows it to be bolted to one of the triangular seat mounts, as well as the floor.

Finally the brake lines.  Anyone who has raced a Mini on tarmac will know that back brakes are at times nothing short of suicidal, but the scrutineers require them to exist, so I have 2 brake bias valves. The modified adjustable  ‘standard’ type one at the rear under the subframe is capable of completely isolating the rear feed. I also have a Wilwood lever type valve that I can make fine tuning adjustments with whilst driving.

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